A few quick checks fix a surprising number of no-heat and no-cool calls. If they don't, we're a call away — no-heat and no-cool calls get priority.
Smell gas? Leave the house first.
Don't use switches or phones inside. Call your gas utility or 911 from outside.
Make sure it's set to Heat (not Cool or Off), the setpoint is a few degrees above room temperature, and replace the batteries if the screen is blank or dim.
Look for a tripped breaker for the furnace, air handler or outdoor unit and reset it once. Check the light-switch-style power switch near the furnace is on, and that the furnace door panel is fully closed.
A clogged filter can make a furnace overheat and shut itself off. If it's gray and matted, replace it.
Light frost is normal and clears in defrost mode. If the unit is encased in ice or buried by snow, leaves or debris, gently clear around it — never chip ice off the coil.
High-efficiency furnaces and air handlers have a float switch that shuts the system off when the drain backs up. If you see water in the pan or around the unit, that's likely the cause.
Set it to Cool with the setpoint a few degrees below room temperature, fan on Auto, and fresh batteries.
AC and heat pumps usually have a breaker for the indoor unit and one for the outdoor unit, plus a disconnect box next to the outdoor unit. Reset a tripped breaker once.
A dirty filter restricts airflow and can freeze the indoor coil. Replace it, and if the coil is iced, switch to Fan only for a few hours to let it thaw.
Make sure nothing is blocking the outdoor unit — leaves, cottonwood fluff, plants or stored items. It needs a couple of feet of clearance.
If the drain line or pan is full of water, the safety switch will stop cooling until it's cleared.
Still not working?
Repairs start with an upfront diagnostic fee, credited back if you approve the repair. No overtime charges.